Give a Thought to the Pot

By Deborah Pilkington, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

Container gardeners, me included, give a lot of thought to choosing which plants will go into the containers.  But not a lot of thought is given to the containers themselves.  Yet, to have a successful container garden in full sun, shade, or anywhere in between, the choice of pot is as important as the choice of plant.  So, for the next few minutes, we’re going to look at factors that should be considered for container choices, especially in our newly-designated hardiness zone 8. 

Porosity

Examples of porous pots. (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Some containers, such as the familiar terra cotta (“baked earth” in Italian) are very porous, meaning the pot draws water from the potting media through its walls. Other porous materials include hypertufa, unglazed ceramic, and clay. Because of this, these porous pots may require more frequent watering, something to think about if they are going to be in full sun. Less porous choices would be wood or concrete, and the least porous pots are made of metal, fiberglass, plastic, or glazed ceramic.  That means they are going to help the potting mix conserve water.  

Size

The smaller the pot size, the more frequently it will need to be watered, sometimes more than once a day. A larger container is going to be heavier and less likely to tip over. Larger containers will require less frequent watering but can be a bear to move from location to location…unless you own one of these (see the photo below). And the cost of filling the container with potting mix is also a consideration.

The difficulty of moving very large pots! (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Fragility

If a container is fragile and susceptible to cracking in cold temperatures, it will need to be moved to a sheltered area for winter.  Terra cotta, clay, unglazed ceramic, and hypertufa are all fragile materials. The sturdiest are metal, plastic, concrete and wood.

Heat Holders

Metal containers, and dark-colored containers are heat holders in full sun. They can even be hot to the touch! Potting mix in these containers can rise to well over 100°F. Keeping roots well-watered, unless you are growing cactus, is a must. 

Shape

If you are going to grow a shrub or tree in a container, at some point the plant will need to be lifted from the container to be root pruned—an onerous but necessary task.  So, for shrubs or trees you want to choose a container that is wider at the top (below on the right) rather than narrower (below on the left) to make lifting easier. 

(Left) This container is more narrow at the top and would make it difficult to remove a shrub that had grown in the pot. (Right) In contrast, this pot is wider at the top than the bottom and it would be easier to remove a shrub that had been grown in the pot. (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Drainage

Good drainage is a must in container gardening.  If the container doesn’t have drainage holes, you can add them using a drill and the appropriate drill bit. And to ensure correct drainage, don’t put anything in the bottom of your container but soil mix. Adding gravel or covering the hole with broken terra cotta not only defeats the purpose of ensuring drainage, but it also raises the level of the perched water table, moving the level of saturated soil even higher in the container and closer to the roots.

Drilling holes in metal containers at Cocoa Cinnamon Demo Garden on Geer Street. (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

For gardeners with limited space, especially the newcomers to Durham’s condominiums and apartments with balconies, container gardening can bring some beauty and food to your home.  For urban container gardening inspiration, visit the International Award-Winning Master GardenerSM Container Demonstration Garden at Cocoa Cinnamon at Foster and Geer streets in Durham.

Get more ideas on container gardening by visiting the Cocoa Cinnamon Demonstration Garden at 420 West Geer Street in Durham, NC. (Image credit: Deborah Pilkington)

Resources and Additional Information

Check out the links below to learn more about plant hardiness zones including the history and factors used to determine the hardiness zone of an area. What does this really mean for North Carolina gardeners?

2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map | USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Gardening Association of North Carolina – 2023 USDA Plant Zone Update (gaonc.org)

AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF AMERICA’S PLANT HARDINESS ZONES (With a Closing Look at North Carolina) | by Tom Packer

For more information on perched water tables and soilless media check out the below online guide about drainage for containers.

How to Improve Drainage in Plant Pots, The Proper Way to Do It! – Deep Green Permaculture

If you want to take a deep dive into the physics of water movement in soilless media and media components, visit the following links.

Growing Media (Potting Soil) for Containers | University of Maryland Extension (umd.edu)

Homemade Potting Media (psu.edu) — How to make your own potting media

Learn more about choosing pots with the in-depth article below.

Containers, Pots, and Planters: What Material Is Best? (gardenerspath.com)

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What I Love About Starting Seeds With Soil Blocks

By Marcia Kirinus, NC State Extension Master GardenerSM volunteer of Durham County

I began seed blocking after scouring the internet for an efficient seed-starting method. By chance, I stumbled upon this technique, and I was immediately hooked. It’s smart and straightforward. The seed blocker resembles a ravioli maker, but instead of pasta, it’s filled with a fine seedling mix.

(Left to right) The soil block tool; side view and from the bottom. Filling the the soil block tool with seedling mix. (Image credit: Marcia Kirinus)

How to Use the Soil Block Tool

After loading the blocker with the seedling mix, you press out 40 small blocks, each measuring 3/4.” Then, you place one seed on top of each block. The soil block becomes its own container, eliminating the need for plastic pots. This method can be used for various seeds, including flowers, vegetables, herbs, and potentially shrubs and trees, though I haven’t tested it for those yet.

(From top to bottom, left to right) 1. Two different size soil blocks. The smaller one I use with most seeds. The larger one is used for larger seeds such as green beans and sunflower. 2. A tray of 40 basil plants of different varieties. 3. A close up of a single stock plant (Matthiola incana); note the beautiful root structure. 4. Seeding eggplant. The block on the left is completely and lightly covered with vermiculite. (Image credit: Marcia Kirinus)

Advantages of Using a Seed Blocker

Cost Effectiveness

  • Eliminates the need for plastic pots, saving both money and space.
  • Ensures precise seed usage, reducing waste from over-seeding.
  • Requires only the purchase of seedling mix and seeds after acquiring the tool.

Efficient Use of Space

  • Soil blocks serve as their own containers, saving space compared to traditional pots.
  • Maximizes space under grow lights, enabling more seedlings to be started simultaneously.
  • No storage needed for plastic pots

Enhanced Germination and Growth

  • Seeds germinate quicker due to the small block size.
  • It produces sturdy, robust plants as the roots are air pruned and ready to pop into the ground.
  • There is little to no transplant shock.
  • The seedlings are uniform in size.

Environmental Benefits

  • Eco-friendly by reducing plastic waste from pots.
  • Reduces the amount of seedling mix needed, minimizing environmental impact.

Convenience

  • Easy transplanting directly into the garden once seedlings reach the appropriate size.
  • Saves time on thinning seedlings and transplanting into larger containers.

Side Benefits

  • It is a satisfying meditative task. You really get to study each seed type because you are handling one seed at a time at a close range.

Disadvantages to Using a Seed Blocker

  • It can be challenging if you’re very busy and unable to water or tend to the seedlings daily. The small blocks dry out quickly, risking loss.
  • The same applies when they’re ready for transplanting; you don’t want them too big, where roots entwine and they become leggy. There is a learning curve to getting this right.

Additional Seed Germination Tips

  • Some seeds require light for germination; research the needs of your seeds. Cover them lightly with vermiculite if they need darkness to germinate.
  • Maintain an air temperature of 65-70°F for cool-season plants like kale, lettuce, broccoli, calendula, and Sweet William. For warm-season plants like tomatoes, peppers, zinnias, and sunflowers, aim for 70-80°F.
  • Proper watering is crucial; avoid overwatering to prevent the growth of algae, which can attract fungus gnats and shore flies. Let the tray dry out between waterings, but don’t allow the seedlings to wilt.

Resources and Additional Information

Check out Michigan State University Extension’s site for a detailed trial on the effectiveness of soil blocking with tomatoes.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/impact-of-soil-blocks-on-yield-and-earliness-of-six-tomato-varieties.

For detailed information on how to make your own seedling mix, see Penn State Extension’s Making Soil Blocks.

https://extension.psu.edu/programs/master-gardener/counties/susquehanna/penn-state-master-gardener-articles/making-soil-blocks.

Utah State University Extension offers a great online video with step-by-step instructions on how to make seedling mix, use the soil blocking tool, and start seeds indoors using this method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiLGOfm0Z-g

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